Gülşehir and Açık Saray (Open Palace): Cappadocia’s quiet north

Gülşehir is the town north of Avanos that many itineraries leave out, and the Açık Saray (“Open Palace”), a rock-cut complex of courtyards, halls and a church, is the main reason to go. It sits at the quiet end of the northern line of sights out of Göreme. No hotel in our catalogue is in Gülşehir, and none of the 80 records mentions it; the 3 hotels in Çavuşin are the northernmost in the catalogue. This guide describes the two sites, how the day fits together and what to ask before you set out. It gives no distances, times, fees or opening hours.

Where Gülşehir is

Gülşehir, whose name literally means “rose city”, is a district town in Nevşehir province, north of Avanos. Reaching it is a matter of continuing along the northern road: out of Göreme through Çavuşin, past the Zelve and Paşabağı turnings, through Avanos and on. Itineraries for the northern line often end at Avanos, which leaves Gülşehir quiet. The town itself is a working district centre; the visit is for the sites. Because the catalogue follows gocappadocia.com, the absence of hotels says something about where visitors sleep, not about whether Gülşehir is worth the trip.

Açık Saray, the Open Palace

Açık Saray is a group of rock-cut spaces: rooms and halls cut around open courtyards in the tuff, with a church among them. The Turkish name means “Open Palace” and suggests a grand residence, but the complex is usually described as a Byzantine-era monastic or religious complex, and what each room was used for is still a matter of interpretation. For a visitor the interest is in scale: unlike a single church, it is a whole complex of connected spaces. Look at how they link, with courtyards opening onto rooms and rooms onto each other, and spend a few minutes following the walls instead of heading straight for the church.

Practical points: the ground is uneven, there are steps and low openings, and some parts may be fenced off or closed for safety. Wear shoes with grip and follow the signs. There is little shade, so carry water and a hat, and a phone torch helps in dark rooms. Check the official source for opening days and entry arrangements before you go, because they change.

Karşı Kilise in the town

In the town itself stands Karşı Kilise, whose name means “the church opposite”, a rock-cut church usually called the church of St John, with frescoes usually dated to the 13th century. It is small, so allow a short stop rather than a long visit. As with all painted churches, photography may be restricted and flash harms the pigments; follow the posted rules and the staff.

The northern line at a glance

Place	What it is	Hotels in the catalogue	Guide
Çavuşin	Old village, church of St John the Baptist	3	Çavuşin guide
Zelve	Open-air museum in three valleys	n/a (a museum)	Zelve guide
Avanos	Pottery town on the Kızılırmak	0	Avanos guide
Gülşehir	Açık Saray, Karşı Kilise	0	this guide

Paşabağı and Devrent Valley, the other stops on the line, are described in what to do in Cappadocia.

Planning the trip

Getting there. Without a car, a taxi or a tour is the practical choice; the three Çavuşin records give no distance to Gülşehir, so ask the hotel for the route and for a driver who knows which sites are open. Time. Treat it as a half-day on its own, or as the last stop of a northern day with Çavuşin, Zelve and Avanos; the day gets long if you add all four. Season. In Nevşehir the average July maximum is 28.5 °C and sunshine runs to about 12 hours a day, with almost no rain (about 2 rainy days a month); in January the average maximum is 4.0 °C (MGM, 1959–2025). Open-air sites with no shade suit the morning in summer and the middle of the day in winter.

Combining it. The 3-day itinerary puts Çavuşin, Zelve, Paşabağı, Devrent and Avanos on a single day. To add Gülşehir, drop one of the smaller stops, such as Devrent, or give the north a second half-day instead of squeezing five stops into one.

What to ask. Is Açık Saray open on the day you plan, and is Karşı Kilise open the same day? Does the driver wait at each stop and for how long? Is lunch available in Gülşehir or should you eat in Avanos? This guide does not know the answers; they change with the season, and it is better to ask the evening before than to find a gate closed after a long drive.

Where to stay for the northern line

Only the three Çavuşin hotels sit on this side of the region in the catalogue. Atax Cave House lists Göreme, Ürgüp and Avanos as nearby and is a workable base for day trips; it also serves breakfast on the terrace. Azure Cave Suites lists balloon and valley views and an airport transfer. Seki Cave Hotel has 16 rooms, each with a fireplace, and is listed as pet-friendly. All three are in the Çavuşin section of the hotel list. After choosing, you can book through gocappadocia.com, the regional booking platform created through the combined efforts of 175 Cappadocia hoteliers, with a best-price guarantee; this guide takes no commission.